I've got a Rockler with a "Router Lift" and it works very well. My top isn't as large as the one pictured, though.
I keep a 3 hp Bosch plunge router mounted here all the time.
Ron
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:07 pm ] |
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I am looking to buy a new router table and have looked at sooo many my head is spinning. JessEm's new Dial in model looks good but with fence, table top and stand it's close to 1K. There are others but I want something dialable and accurate...WHAT DO YOU GUYS RECOMMEND? TIA for your input! |
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| Author: | old man [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 2:10 pm ] |
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I've got a Rockler with a "Router Lift" and it works very well. My top isn't as large as the one pictured, though.
I keep a 3 hp Bosch plunge router mounted here all the time. Ron |
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| Author: | Kelby [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 2:29 pm ] |
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I recommend you pick the fence/lift combo you like, then build your own table! It's a fairly straightforward project, and you can build one far sturdier than anything you can buy. |
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| Author: | D.L.Huskey [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 3:18 pm ] |
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Dave, Have you given any thought to a Shaper instead of a router table? |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:10 pm ] |
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When it comes to tooling for the non-production builder I'm in the keep it simple school. I built in my own table system into the workbench top. It is in the top three most used tools I have (Drill press, Bandsaw). 
I level the insert using four, screws and inserts, the same ones I use for neck joining, but with a locking nut. 
I don't use a raiser as I think that is overkill for the amateur and low production builder I just lift the whole thing out and set the depth as I would normally. 
I think the whole thing took me about an hour to put together. It has been used for making all of my moulds and bending forms, bridges etc using a pattern bit and of course gets used for cutting truss rod and CF slots in the neck. Keep it simple, less to go wrong and you can spend the money you saved on more wood! Colin |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:58 pm ] |
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You want smaller and sturdy - stainless steel top wont warp, birch ply construction ??? Check out the Lee Valley router table, it has lots of add ons if you want, micro adjust fence, cross cut fence etc. Fits any router, easily adjusts. I basically made one so I could accomodate PC tamplate guides, whcih ten years ago was not an option for that table. |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:03 pm ] |
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My "router table" looks a lot like yours, Colin. My router (2 HP Bosh) is attached to a 5 mm steel plate that is inlayed into a 40 mm Formica topped bench top. I clamp the whole arrangement to my woodworking bench when I need it. It is very sturdy, and I have no desire for a more elaborate table, except I will build it into a more permanent system once the new shop extension is done. I do have an old huge, monster shaper with something like a 10 HP motor in parts somewhere in my garage. It was so cheap I could not afford to not buy it when a local cabinet shop was closing down, but I have no idea where to put it (or how I am going to move it, the seller used his tractor to load it onto my poor trailer...). Perhaps if I start making solid bodies it will come in handy, at least that is the story I stick to when my wife asks about it. |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:44 pm ] |
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Dave- I have the complete Jessem Router Lift FX including table, aluminum leg set,fence- with a PC890 series router motor. Not counting router, about $700. But, and a big but, if you buy their package you will never look back. Their quality is some of the finest in high-tech aluminum I have come across. As dearly as I paid, I was still amazed at the precision. My perspective, though, is from someone whose skill level provides plenty of compromise, so I don't add to it by compromising my tools. I have built 4 router tables as gifts,complete with miter tracks and routed for a number of different plates, and 2 layer BB 3/4" ply with two pieces of 1 1/2" angle rabbetted and epoxied lengthwise across the bottom does make a great top. You could just get the FX and make all of the rest. Check out as vendors, Eagle-America or perhaps, Hartville.MT |
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| Author: | A Peebels [ Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:57 pm ] |
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I built a router table into one of the extension wings of my table saw. I use the tablesaw fence and miter guide slots from the saw. I just permanently mounted the router base on the underside. The only part that I had to buy specefically for the project was the mounting plate, and I could have made that. Everything else was from material that was left over from other projects. Al |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:07 am ] |
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Mine is built into my tablesaw extension table as well. I use a Jessem lift and it is great. I didn't realize how much I would use it until it was actually installed. I use my Biesmeyer fence for the router fence, but I need to build some sort of micro-adjust fence to fit onto it. It's way too hard to bump the fence into position when dealing with small adjustments. It's also handy to be able to crank the bit down so you can use the tablesaw without having to remove the bit from the router. |
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| Author: | Wayne Clark [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 1:03 am ] |
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I also bought the Rockler table top, but didn't spring for the lift. I mounted it on some steel legs (also from Rockler) and the router is very accessible, so depth adjustments are easy. |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:06 am ] |
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Thanks guys..now I'm even more confused...  .
THANKS FOR THE INPUT IT IS GREATLY APPRECIATED! |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 2:21 am ] |
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BTW Dave, the thing I forgot to mention was why I opted to mount the router lift in my tablesaw table. The tablesaw was already taking up floor space in my shop. If I had gone with a top and leg set I would have had an additional allocation of space for that. It was just a matter of saving some space. Something to think about if you have a fairly small shop. |
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| Author: | SimonF [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:33 am ] |
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Dave, I thought I would chime in here. Routers and shapers are very different machines. The main limiting factor for a shaper comes in that it does not spin the bit nearly as quickly, with the highest RPM's being just over 10,000. What this supposedly, means is that you can't get as fine a surface with a shaper. I say supposedly because I don't know how much truth there is too that claim. I think both machines will give you excellent cuts if you are using the proper bits. However, if you buy a shaper I would buy shaper specific bits instead of just throwing a router bit in there. I personally think a router table should be your first buy. It is much better designed to handle template cutting and can give you a beautiful and flawless finish - the bits are usually cheaper too. Quite honestly, this will likely be the bulk of your work. I know that I use template work for a ton of different jigs. The only times I wish I had a shaper would be for the following operations: 1) Hogging out the neck. With a proper bit you can shape the whole side profile of the neck in one pass. I do this on the router table but the operation would be much easier on a shaper. 2) Radiusing the fingerboard. With the proper bit you can put a radius on the fretboard. This is something you can never do with a router - unless you have an elaborate jig like the one Craig Holden sells. FYI, I bought a Woodhaven Phenolic table. I use a Milwaukee 3.5 HP router because it is always rated the best router for heavy-duty work and it has been designed to be used in a table. The Milwaukee has a very nice adjustement knob that you turn to adjust the height - it is very easy to use and very accurate. Plunge routers are unecessary in a router table - spend your money on a more powerful router. For guitar work, I personally think the "lifts" and these do-everything fences are absolute overkill. All you really need is a nice flat surface and a simple but effective fence. Best of luck, Simon |
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| Author: | Cameron Reddy [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:52 am ] |
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[QUOTE=SimonF] Dave, Routers and shapers are very different machines. The main limiting factor for a shaper comes in that it does not spin the bit nearly as quickly, with the highest RPM's being just over 10,000. What this supposedly, means is that you can't get as fine a surface with a shaper. Simon[/ QUOTE] Actually, a shaper will give you a glass smooth finish with a quality cutting tool. Shapers are also designed to be used with power feeders that can be bolted/drilled into the shaper tables. You cannot manually feed stock into a router as smoothly, with as even pressure down against the table, or with as even pressure against the fence, as can a power feeder, and the result shows in the fabulously even cut. That said, the shaper/power feeder system is designed for long straight lengths, such as molding. I suppose it would work well with a fretboard, trim around the neck, or cutting a rabbit for a back strip. Haven't tried those applications yet. |
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| Author: | old man [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:49 am ] |
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I would still suggest you get some kind of router lift. I bought my setup when I was building furniture but it is really nice when making jigs and routing the truss rod slot. Any thing where you need to take small amounts at a time, it is just so easy to change the depth almost instantly. Ron |
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| Author: | Brad Way [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 9:23 am ] |
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Like Dave, I also mounted a router lift in my table saw extension. I have a Freud Router with the Woodpecker lift. For many years I used a laminate counter top with a plexiglass insert for the router to mount. It worked fine but it was a real hassel to change the bits and adjustments are a little ackward (or least mine was). I paid around $160 for my lift and it works well (Woodpecker Plunglift). I am not sure the router lift has improved the quality of my woodworking but it certainly makes adjustments much easier and quicker. |
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| Author: | Scooter B [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 9:42 am ] |
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Dave I am building one out of Router Magic by Bill Hylton. Excellent book with many good inexpensive DIY application for routers. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762101857/sr=1-1/qid=11568 04080/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-6649689-4330509?ie=UTF8&s=books He also has a DIY lift conversion for plunge routers that cost you 1/10 of the store bought ones. His recomendation on router table materials (and he reviews quite a few is; 2 pieces of 3/4" baltic birch ply glued together with hardwood edging and a slick durable laminate of counter top material from your local Borg Depot etc. The two plywood layers prevent warping and are exremely strong while the counter top laminates seal out moisture while giving you a slick work top to run your goods through the router. Materials should come in under $200 or so but you have to invest some sweat equity. 
Clear lexan, acrylic or polycarbonate plate 3/8" thick and plans for making inserts for each size of bit (if desired). |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Mon Aug 28, 2006 10:35 am ] |
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I sanded the BB tops I built to 600 and then used wipe on poly. Finally, a couple of coats of non-silicone paste wax.MT |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:11 am ] |
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Great set up Colin, thanks for the pics! |
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| Author: | Tom Armstrong [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:54 am ] |
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My first was a home built table and it suited my purposes for 5-10 years. Next I bought a lower end commercial rig by Bulldog. It too suited me for a few years. I now have the Jessem FX table with the miter slide and have absolutely no regrets. Sure it was costly but I can attest to the quality for the price. It is as precise and finished as the price says it should be. Overkill for luthiery?? probably but how many of us work strictly on luthiery projects. You get what you pay for. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:54 am ] |
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I see Woodcraft has a PC router and Woodpecker lift on sale this week. I think you save about $50 when you buy both... |
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| Author: | David R White [ Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:33 am ] |
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Here's my two bits. By a router with two bases so you can keep one permanently installed in the table. Build the table itself, I used MDF for the top and some good quality hinges from Lee Valley that will hold the whole thing open for you for easy router removal. Then spend big on the fences. I got the Jessem fence and the sliding mitre attachment and I think it's great. |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:14 am ] |
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Thanks for all the reponse guys! I am leaning toward the Jess-Emme setup. It's costly, but all good tools are. I need something that I can quickly dial in the parameters. I am too lazy and too busy to build one and have too many scars on my knuckles from changing bits under my current table ( Porter Cable). I guess I will just have to "splain-it" to the wife over a bottle of champagne or something .
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:51 am ] |
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i looked all over the place and decided to put the money into a top end pc vs 3 1/4 hp rounter, a bench dog pro lift, and a quality fence. the table? the base is an aquarium stand bought at an auction for a dollar and the top is a 1 1/4" piece of kitchen counter offcut, free. works for me... |
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